Arriving in Valetta, I climbed the hill towards the centre of Valetta. The last time I came here with guests a huge argument broke out between two families on opposite balconies. My friends were so mesmerised by the loud shouting and families pouring out of doorways to continue the shouting match it was hard to drag them away.
Eventually, I reach the main entrance of Valetta and the new parliament building. There has been much controversy over this building with some calling it a monstrosity and others a work of art. I've experimented with my guests and have to say it is 50/50. Roughly half hate it and half love it. I have to confess I don't like it myself and much prefer the old building style opposite. It is all those tiny windows that offend me.
Here is the view of the opposite side of the street, giving a more traditional feel. To my eye they seem so much more elegant than the carbuncle facing them.
Mind you, I would have loved to see the old opera house rebuilt. That looked to be a really grand building from the remaining ruins.
You can tell really lovely architecture, even when bombed to pieces it retains a beauty and presence. Here's a reminder of how it used to look before the war.
Nice to see Valetta look so busy with people, it makes it feel a city that is very much alive.
Heading up towards the saluting battery I see that now the horses have shade to stand in. One local wit pointed out in the Malta Times that if the local councillors had to stand in blazing sunshine like the horses all day then canopies would have been quickly provided. Sometimes it takes smart comments to win the day!
The Saluting Battery is a lovely place to be in Valetta and everyday at noon you can hear the cannons being fired. Lovely to have the shelter of the trees and the sound of water from the fountain.
But it the view that greets you as you emerge through the arches, that takes the breath away.
From here I can see my goal, Birgu, and must descend to sea level using the lift provided new this year. It is free to go down but you pay coming up, unless you are willing to walk up all the endless flights of steps.
Lovely view out of the glass fronted lift as you descend. Once you reach the bottom you only have to cross the road and you'll see the sign for the ferry to the Three Cities.
Always nice to see you have timed it nicely and the ferry is on its way to pick you up. At only 1.50 euros these ferry tickets are value for money. Note the oil rig in for repairs in the harbour. At such times you realise this is a working harbour with huge dry docks.
This is a much nicer way to arrive at Birgu than by bus. I have to admire all the yauchts on display as we pass.
There is so much to explore here and I have only investgated a small part, Malta is bigger than it seems.
As I walk along the pier from the ferry I am approaching my goal the Maritime Museum. On the way I pass on of the few churches to survive the World War 2 bombing. As this harbour was the major goal of the bombers, this area was blasted severly and very little left standing.
A little further along the pier and here is the Maritime Museum housed in a very fine building that used to be the old naval bakery.
Inside there are displays on all aspects of sailing history. I am shocked to find I am the only one visiting today and have the entire buidlng to myself.
My grandfather used to use a smaller table top version of this in our old corner shop. This is my height. When goods came through the port this kind of device came into its own. Need to use the toilet in the museum which is nice and clean but has this weird notice on the back of the toilet door.
It shows some one perched with their feet on top of the toilet. I remember my mother telling me of an aunt who would stand on the toilet when using it. It somehow made me look at this aunt very differently because it seemed such an odd and tricky thing to do. To be honest, I kept quiet about this whole business, it was one of those family secrets you carry but need not share. To discover that there are so many people out there who do this, that a notice is placed to warn them off makes me feel better. Obviously, it is much more common than I thought!
The rooms are filled with models of ships and I'm wondering if being stuck indoors when the sun is shining outside is a wise move. Then, I discover this Lateen, rigged boat and am cheered. Love the angles of the sails. Such a chirpy chappy. But rounding a corner I come across this brazen cartoon character that seems way over the top - almost theaterical.
It is from the HMS Hibernia, which was flagship of
the British Mediterranean Fleet from 1816 until 1855, when she became
the flagship for the Royal Navy's base at Malta. Later she was used
to transport convicts to Australia. Finally scrapped in 1902 the wood was
used in bakeries in Malta and caused lead poisoning! Toxic stuff despite
the cartoon-like figurehead. Here is a model of the actual ship.
In 1523 When the Knights
of St John had to flee Rhodes to Malta, they had a huge ship called the Carrack
Santa Maria which helped them carry many men and supplies. The Santa Anna
was an even larger Carrack and had a lead lined hull which shots never were able
to penetrate. The mast of the Santa Anna was so large it took seven men
to embrace the huge mast. It had its own mill, bakery (providing fresh
bread daily), a large chapel blacksmith and even had gardens of citrus fruit
trees and plants on the stern galleries. It had seven decks and must have
dwarfed every other ship around it. There is a likeness of the carrack in
the refectory of the Order of St John’s Palace in Rome but
the closest I could find is this one below, which hardly does it justice.
There is a lot to see in this museum including the largest Roman anchor ever found, uniforms, implements used at sea including a surgeon's operating kit. It is hard to be excited about display after display of stuff and I began to long to be outside in the fresh air. How I wish there were audio tracks to bring all this alive. I did ask at the door but was told to just read the information written on each display. A great audio account can transform a museum experience and bring it all to life with sound effects and personal stories. Without that it becomes rather dead and dusty. Here is an example of the information given.
Such a shame when huge posters are carefully printed and laminated but with mistakes everywhere. 'Russia retreated its stand' 'Due to the ranging plague', 'raking havoc'? If it was just one display ,what odds, but there seemed to be errors on so many. I begin to feel like one of those critical ex pats finding things to complain about. I know so many Maltese whose English is so excellent it makes mistakes like these very strange. I liked this lovely rowing boat on display with lovely long lines.
Time to head home. I shall enjoy the ferries all the way back. It seemed appropriate to visit the maritime museum by sea.
"I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by;"
